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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.